explore it yourself:
The journey:
We arrived by train from Sicily on the night of July 15th and stayed until the late morning of July 18th. The journey from Catania to Sicily took us almost 12 hours and included a total of 5 trains and a ferry ride along the way.
To begin, we boarded our first train at Cannizzaro Train Station at 5:15am to get to Messina which included a transfer at Giarre-Riposto.
Upon arrival at Messina Centrale, we then walked to the port and purchased two ferry tickets for 2.50 EUR each from BluJets. The ferry runs every 30-40 minutes between Messina Port and Villa S. Giovanni which is where our next train was set to take off from.
After boarding our next train, we rode from Villa S. Giovanni to Salerno where we had to switch to a regional, slower-moving train heading to Pompeii.
In Pompeii, the trains from Salerno arrive into the main train station while our final train to Sorrento was leaving from the station across town called Pompeii Scavi Villa Dei Misteri. We just missed the public bus that ran between the two stations so we ended up walking across town which took ~25 minutes with the route taking us along the outskirts of the archaeological ruins of Pompeii.
Lastly, we purchased tickets for the Campania Express Train online for 18 EUR each and this ride took us ~45 minutes to get to Sorrento where we finally reached our destination.
The accommodations:
Below is what AI recommended for accommodations, its recommendations were all in Sorento:
1. Ulisse Deluxe Hostel
2. B&B Sorrento Central
3. Casa Astarita B&B
4. B&B Relais Diana
5. Camping Village Santafortunata
We ended up selecting an Airbnb here, as we found that all of the hotels and hostels listed above were more expensive than short term rentals. Our Airbnb was located in the center of Sorrento, about a 15 minute walk from the Sorrento train station. Our accommodations were enough for what we needed without any extra bells and whistles. One thing to note was that our rooms were on the fifth floor of an apartment building with no elevator in the unit so every trip out on the town required a steep climb back up when we returned home which was tough on some days when the weather was consistently above 95 degrees!
Note: * our additions to ai itinerary and exclusions are crossed out, also see our summary at the bottom.
Day 1: Amalfi/Atrani & sorrento
morning in amalfi/atrani
Note: We didn’t do any of this morning (to Amalfi/Atrani) because we weren’t feeling well, but still want to include it in case it is useful to anyone.
- Ferry from Sorrento to Amalfi, more scenic and quicker than the bus
- Start in the heart of Amalfi at Piazza del Duomo. Grab a quick espresso and a fresh sfogliatella (shell-shaped pastry) at one of the corner cafes before the crowds take over.
- Climb the striking stairs of the Duomo di Sant’Andrea (Amalfi Cathedral). Step inside to explore the stunning 11th-century architecture and the peaceful Moorish-style Cloister of Paradise.
- Stroll the main pedestrian street, Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi. Pop into local shops to browse handmade ceramics, lemon-themed products, and sample some authentic limoncello.
- Take the scenic 15-minute walk from Amalfi to Atrani. You will follow the pedestrian path and the coastal road (SS163), passing under the archways and soaking in incredible, cliffside ocean views. It is more quiet and incredibly charming, tiny piazzas, laundry hanging between buildings, and a very authentic coastal feel.
- Step into Piazza Umberto I, the main square in Atrani. It is much smaller and less commercialized than Amalfi, making it a perfect spot to wander through the maze of narrow alleyways, white-washed houses, and vaulted passages.
- Conclude your morning with an early lunch by the sea in Atrani. Head to beachfront restaurants like La Risacca to enjoy fresh seafood and pasta, or grab a drink right in the lively town square.
- Ferry back to Sorrento
Afternoon/evening in sorrento
- Lunch at
- AZZ! Italian Tavern*
- Right alongside the main street, the pasta here was incredible and everything is handmade so it may take a bit to get your food but it is certainly worth the wait!
- OR Ristorante Zi Ntonio
- AZZ! Italian Tavern*
- Piazza della Vittoria, great view over the Marina Grande
- The view of the water below was absolutely amazing, great spot to capture some beautiful photos!
- Chiostro di San Francesco, peaceful courtyard just steps from the Piazza
- Step in here for a quiet escape from the bustling streets outside and catch some shade.
- Villa Comunale, lovely cliffside park with panoramic views over the Bay of Naples that is especially amazing at sunset (elevator to port)
- There are so many lively bars and restaurants along the water, grabbing a bench here and taking in the scene was the perfect way to spend some
Leonelli’s Beach, if time allows (we didn’t swim here just people watched for a bit)- Piazza Tasso, the lively heart of town
- We spent a majority of our time walking through this area each day. There is seemingly endless shopping and eating options to choose from.
- Walk down to Marina Grande, a quaint fishing village with colorful boats and seafood restaurants
- Dinner at O’ Puledrone, Ristorante*
- Helpful Tip: The walk down to the Marina involves quite a bit of stairs to reach the water. There is an elevator you can take for a price of 1.20 EUR for a one way ticket (or 2.20 EUR round-trip)
- At the end of the evening, we stopped for a pint of Guinness at the English Inn and Chaplin’s Irish Pub, both across the street from eachother right on the main shopping street in Sorrento.
- Both were cozy places to sit for a drink. Chaplin’s Irish Pub had working A/C indoors which was a nice relief from the blistering heat outside while the English Inn utilized a number of oscillating fans indoors which didn’t exactly help cool the place down.
Day 2: boat tour to positano & Capri
boat tour info
- AI recommended that we spend a day on a boat to explore the coast from the water. After asking for boat recommendations, AI suggested several options through Viator ranging from 100 – 200 EUR per person depending on the itinerary for the trip. After doing our own research, we ended up deciding on the below option:
- PDG Private Boat Tour: Departing from Piazza Marinai d’Italia, and making stops in Positano/Capri
- The standard tour generally lasts for 8 hours but we added another hour for an extra 100 EUR
- The total cost for the tour was 1,050 EUR with a 300 EUR deposit due upon booking
- Note: If you decide to pay in cash on board like we did, you are afforded a 10% discount on the total price.
- Also, there is a separate 100 EUR fee to dock in Capri if you want to visit on land. Plus, there is an additional fee if you want to go into Blue Grotto.
- We highly recommend going with this company as the total spend ended up coming to 153 EUR per person for our group of 7 for a full 9-hour tour that included a custom itinerary, a fridge stocked with water, soda, beer, prosecco, and homemade limoncello on board, as well as a very friendly English-speaking tour guide who shared many interesting historical facts along the way and gave helpful suggestions on the order of our itinerary.
Morning - Sorrento to Positano
- Disembark at the main pier and step onto Spiaggia Grande, the iconic main beach. Take a moment to snap photos of the colorful, cliffside houses towering above you—this is the best spot for those classic, sweeping views.
- This is quite possibly one of the most scenic areas in the entire world and pictures truly don’t do it a justice. Be sure to take a minute to just look around and enjoy the views.
- Take a leisurely, flat walk from the beach up Via dei Mulini. Within a few minutes, you will reach the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, easily recognized by its vibrant, majolica-tiled dome. Spend a quick 15 minutes stepping inside to see the stunning 13th-century Byzantine Madonna painting and the Roman villa ruins beneath it.
- With limited time, skip the heavy dining and embrace the Italian aperitivo culture. Head over to
Franco’s Bar(at Le Sirenuse) for world-class cliffside views, or grab a table right at the waterfront atChez Blackto sip a cocktail and people-watch. If you just want a quick sweet treat, grab a refreshing lemon sorbet atCollina Bakery.- We ended up grabbing sandwiches and a cocktail from Buca di Bacco and taking them just outside on the beach and enjoying them in a shaded spot near the water. The Foccacia, Mozzarella, and Tomato sandwich was the best by far!
- Stop into boutiques along Viale Pasitea
- Visit CB by Kore* for the cute handmade bags and dresses.
- Wind your way slowly back down toward the marina through the boutique-lined alleys. Do some quick window shopping for handmade leather sandals and local ceramics.
Afternoon-positano to capri
This is what we wanted to do and had planned:
- Arrive at Marina Grande on Capri
- Head to the right to the orange bus line to go to
Anacaprifor chairlift- Buses depart every 15–20 minutes but lines can get long in high season and buses fill up quickly. Buy tickets at the local tobacco shops (Tabacchi) or directly on board.
- Get dropped off at Piazza Vittoria, walk up the stairs (toward the Capri Palace Hotel) and turn right to find the station
- Monte Solaro Chair Lift (ride takes about 13 minutes each way, providing spectacular views of the island)
- After ride, have some gelato at Capri Crema Cafe, if desired
- Head back to the bus stop to go from Anacapri to Capri’s central town (La Piazzetta), could take open-air taxi for about $35-40 per ride for 4 people
- Wander the La Piazzetta (Piazza Umberto I)
- Piazzetta Cerio*
- Walk through the Gardens of Augustus for Faraglioni views
- Browse high-end boutiques, very chic vibe
- Walk down to the port via Via Mulo or the old funicular footpath. The stairs start right behind the Piazzetta. It is entirely downhill.
Because of the unbearable heat, we decided to pare down our itinerary for the island, this is what we actually did:
- Grotto Bianca* – Stopped to see the interior then swam nearby
- Made our way to Marina Grande on Capri
- Had to hop on a smaller boat to bring us to the shore.
- Walked along the waterfront on the Via Cristoforo Colombo* – Popped into shops
- Stopped in Bar il Gabbiano and shared different flavored Spritz’s as well as two cured meats and cheeses platters.
- We sat inside to cool off briefly, the A/C didn’t work great so it wasn’t much cooler indoors but it was a nice spot to share a drink and an appetizer.
- Ordered spritzes from the cocktail window at Limo*
- For 10 EUR, you can order from a wide range of spritz flavors. For 25 EUR your cocktail will be served in a giant lemon!
- Dinner back in Sorrento
- Frankie’s Pizza Bar* – we were exhausted from the day so we got pizza to go
- The pizza was great and the service was even better!
- OR
Da Paolino– iconic lemon-tree setting - OR
Aurora– stylish and classic - OR
Caffe Manari
- Frankie’s Pizza Bar* – we were exhausted from the day so we got pizza to go
- Primavera Gelateria* – Delicious gelato served in a large lemon, good to note that it was 12 EUR each. It was cool to get once, but in the future would stick to a simple dish.
Day 3: morning in Sorrento before departure
Sorrento Historic Center
Parco di Villa Fiorentino– Garden in the city- Corso Italia – The main shopping street in Sorrento loaded with all types of restaurants and vendors.
- We walked through here frequently to take in the scene and people watch. The souvenir shops are actually fairly priced for the quality of items they are selling.
- Cathedral of Saints Philip & James – we stopped on the outside of the building to take a few photos.
- The Cathedral is situated directly on main shopping street, Corso Italia.
- Via San Cesareo – Another popular street to shop for souvenirs and gelato.
- This shopping street runs parallel to Corso Italia with much narrower streets populated with tons of gelato shops and souvenir vendors.
- Breakfast/coffee at
- Cheri – This was a pastry/coffee bar with a large seating area in the back which was nice for storing all of our luggage prior to our trains departure.
- OR
Fauno Bar, coffee/breakfast
- Vallone dei Mulini – We were able to get views of this gorge directly from the street as we walked towards the train station for our departure.
final thoughts:
Overall Rating: 1000/10
Would we go again? Would love to go again and hang out longer and have more time to truly soak it all in.
Favorite moment:
Bailey’s favorite: Swimming cliff side in the clear blue water with my family listening to music. The boat day was one of the very best days of my life.
Parker’s favorite: The moment during our boat tour when we pulled up along the coast in Positano was incredible. There were so many vibrant colors amongst the houses on the cliffside, it was so amazing to see.
Favorite meal:
Bailey’s favorite: O’ Puledrone, Ristorante had great food and ambiance. I ordered the ravioli and we had a bottle of white wine for the table. I’m not much of a wine person, but the wine was good.
Parker’s favorite: The pizza at Frankie’s Pizza Bar in Sorrento! We tried the Margherita and the Veggie pizza, both were fantastic!
Any surprises? From Sorrento to Positano is about a 45 minute boat ride which was further than we imagined.
Anything we missed? Would have loved to do more of Capri (the itinerary we had above). Additionally, we heard good things about Ischia.
Food spots AI recommended, but we didn’t have a chance to go: Franco’s Bar, Chez, Black Collina Bakery, Da Paolin, Aurora, Caffe Manari, and Fauno Bar.
Average step count per day: 16,550 steps
How did ai do?
Nailed it: First and foremost we appreciate that AI recommended staying in Sorrento rather than the other towns along the Amalfi Coast. The logistics of getting to the coast aren’t exactly super straight-forward if you are traveling on a budget and don’t wish to go with a private transfer directly to Positano for example. Sorrento was the perfect place to stay as it still provides the very Italian, coastal feel while also shaving roughly an hour off of the commute to the other towns deeper into the coast.
Needs work: Although we were glad AI suggested to do a boat tour along the coast, it recommended to jump on a public tour for ~150 EUR per person. At this stop on our journey, our family had joined us so we had a group of 7 total. We went against AI’s recommendation and booked a private boat tour for the day which ultimately came to the same price as it would have been to join a shared boat tour. We felt that this was a big miss on AI’s part as the simple math made for sense for us get our own private driver who allowed us to customize our itinerary for the day and hit all the stops we wanted to see while making time to stop and swim in 3 different locations around the coast.